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How to make Top Hat Zoom

How to make Top Hat


Debonair top hats are easy to sew from patterns that come in two convenient sizes: 20" head circumference to fit boys and 23" head circumference to fit men.


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Step 1

MATERIALS

  • 1-1/2 yards of 44" wide fabric – we recommend satin, brocade, wool blends, twill, cotton blends and lightweight felt
  • 1/4 yard of coordinating 44" wide fabric for hat band
  • 1-1/2 yards of 22" to 25" wide heavyweight interfacing – we recommend Pellon® Peltex™ 71F Single Sided Ultra Firm Stabilizer for best results
  • Hat pattern:
    • For 20" Top Hat pattern see pages 3-8, which will print on 6 sheets of 8-1/2" x 11" paper
    • For 23" Top Hat pattern see pages 9-14 which will print on 6 sheets of 8-1/2" x 11" paper
  • Transparent tape
  • Straight pins
  • Scissors
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Sewing machine
  • Matching thread
  • One package of Wrights® 1/2" wide double fold bias tape
  • Hand sewing needle

Step 2

Assemble pattern as per Page Pattern Layout shown on page "A" of printed pattern, overlapping edges and matching cutting lines. Tape together once assembled, forming a single pattern sheet.

Step 3

Cut hat pieces from fabric and interfacing, as directed on pattern. Cut hat brim pieces from coordinating fabric, as directed on pattern.

Step 4

Following manufacturer’s instructions apply interfacing to WRONG side of all hat brim, crown and top pieces.

Step 5

With RIGHT sides together, pin the hat brim pieces together, matching all cut edges. Pin around OUTER edges only. Stitch outer edges in a 5/8" seam. Press seam to blend stitches.

Step 6

Trim seam allowance to 1/8" and clip curves.

Step 7

Turn hat brim RIGHT side out and press outer edge flat.

Step 8

Pin the INSIDE edge of the hat brim together. With a slightly longer straight machine stitch, place a row of stitching 5/8" from the cut edge and remove pins. Clip curves to stay stitching, being careful not to clip threads.

Step 9

Turn back upper edge of hat band 1/4" to finish edge; press.

Step 10

Place the WRONG side of hat band to RIGHT side of hat crown, matching notches and cut edges. Pin in place. Edge stitch upper edge of hat band to hat crown, stitching close to pressed edge. Hand or machine baste lower edge of hat band to hat crown.

Step 11

With RIGHT sides together, pin the front and back crowns together at side seams, matching cut edges. Sew side seams in a 5/8" seam.

Step 12

Open seams and top stitch seam allowances in place to keep seams open, stitching 1/4" from seam. Trim excess seam allowances, trimming close to top stitching.

Step 13

On RIGHT side of fabric, center the open side of the tab over the center front seam, matching cut edges. Pin in place. If desired, hand baste together for extra security.

Step 14

Place a row of stay stitching 5/8" from upper edge of hat crown. Clip every 1/2" along the top, being careful not to clip through stay stitching.

Step 15

With RIGHT sides together, pin upper edge of crown to hat top, matching notches and cut edges. Tip: hand baste to hold pieces securely together while stitching curves. Stitch together in a 5/8" seam. Trim seam.

Step 16

Turn hat RIGHT side out, pushing upper seam gently to flatten the seam and shape the top hat.

Step 17

With RIGHT sides together, pin lower edge of crown to inner curve of hat brim, basting in place if desired. Stitch together in a 5/8" seam.

Step 18

Layer seam by trimming inner seam allowance to 1/4" wide, and them trimming middle seam allowance to 1/2" wide. Leave outer seam allowance intact at 5/8".

Step 19

Turn hat brim RIGHT side out, turning all seam allowances to the INSIDE of the crown. Finger press seam to flatten and hold in place.

Step 20

Cut a length of double fold bias tape: 21" long for 20" hat, 24" long for 23" hat. Open and press only the center fold of the tape.

Step 21

With a hand sewing needle and matching thread, hand stitch bias tape to INSIDE of hat where the brim meets the crown, covering the seam allowances. When you reach the end, turn back the bias tape 1" and stitch in place to finish.

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